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It took me a very long time and a lot of trial and error to perfect—which is why I created this super-simple, step-by-step guide to CGM.
For years, I relentlessly straightened my wavy/curly hair, but after hearing about the Curly Girl Method (CGM), I decided to embrace my curls. This has been amazing for me and my hair. It now takes a lot less time to do my hair, it's healthier, and I've finally gotten used to seeing myself with big, curly hair.
It was also a bit confusing! I found myself lost in a sea of contradicting information, complex steps, and endless questions. What's the simplest approach for beginners? How long until CGM shows results? How frequently should I follow the routine? This led me to create a straightforward, stress-free, step-by-step guide tailored for various hair types venturing into the world of CGM.
Here is everything you need to know about the how to's of the Curly Girl Method, including the top CGM curl products (and how to use them), techniques for brushing and detangling your curls, hair washing (and drying) tips, and more. Take a moment to relax, settle in for an informative read, and be prepared to take some notes or screenshots. You've got this.
What is the Curly Girl Method for Curly Hair Types?
The Curly Girl Method was originally developed by curl expert and hairstylist, Lorraine Massey, the author of Curly Girl: The Handbook. It's worth noting that the information available online, including here, are adaptations of Massey's original CGM approach, which has evolved over time to cater to a wider variety of wavy, curly, and coily (kinky) hair types.
The general idea behind the Curly Girl Method is that the ideal routine can create the best curls. Someone with super-tight coils may end up with different protocol than someone with wavy hair, but basically, the Curly Girl Method will help you figure out the best products and techniques for your exact hair type—you can find out your hair type here—so you’ll be able to enhance your natural wave, curl, or coil pattern while reducing dryness, breakage, and frizz.
Will the Curly Girl Method Work For My Hair Type?
If you're wondering if the Curly Girl Method is right for your hair, just know that type-3 curls usually love it the most. Figuring out your hair type is key to understanding how this method works and how to make it work best for your hair. People with 2c and 4a hair have had great results, but even if your hair is straighter or curlier, I would definitely still give CGM a try. Just remember, everyone's hair is different, so your results may vary!
First Things First...What to Avoid With the Curly Girl Method
When starting with the Curly Girl Method at the beginner level, the key is to eliminate products that damage your curls (such as those that are drying or harsh) and instead incorporate products that nourish, hydrate, and improve your curls (such as moisturizers, proteins, and mild cleansers). Here are some products to steer clear of and things to avoid.
Shampoos Containing Sulfates
Although you will use a clarifying shampoo to start your journey, and anytime you feel like your hair may be overconditioned or have build-up, you will want to stick to a sulfate-free shampoo.
Heat Tools
You will want to avoid any heat tools on your hair including straightening and curling irons. You can use a diffuser on low heat occasionally if you just don't have the time to air dry.
Products Containing Silicone
Avoid using silicones as they can accumulate on your curls, making them appear limp, dry, flat, and oily. Silicones are not recommended for the Curly Girl Method (CGM). Silicones are in a lot of hair products, so you will want to be careful about this one.
Using a Bath Towel for Drying Your Hair
Terry cloth (and even some microfiber) towels rough up the hair cuticle and can lead to frizz and damage. You will want to use a 100% cotton t-shirt or t-shirt hair towel to scrunch your hair. Many curly girls like to plop their hair to get it drier. We'll touch more on this below.
Alcohols
Although not all alcohols are bad (like cetearyl and cetyl alcohol which are derived from oils), many can damage your hair cuticle and usually found in aerosol sprays including hairspray and dry shampoo. So, you will want to stick to alcohol-free hairspray and dry shampoo.
What Products Do You Need to Start the Curly Girl Method?
After learning what products to avoid, let's discuss some items essential for beginners starting the CGM journey. Hair types vary and so will the best products for your hair. What may suit 4a hair might not be suitable for 2b waves. However, here is a simple CGM product routine to follow after your reset wash.
Cleanser for the Curly Girl Hair Method
When following the Curly Girl Method for hair care, you want to cleanse your hair and scalp while maintaining the health and integrity of your curls. it's essential to choose a cleanser that is gentle, hydrating, and free from sulfates and silicones.
The CGM suggests that you try conditioner as your cleanser. Yes! Conditioner instead of shampoo to wash your hair. This really depends on your level of oiliness if you want to stick with it, but it is worth giving it a try. More on this below!
Conditioner for the Curly Girl Hair Method
Conditioner plays a key role in hydrating and nourishing curly hair, helping to combat frizz and dryness. Choose a conditioner that is sulfate-free and rich in moisturizing ingredients such as shea butter, coconut oil, or argan oil to help keep your curls soft and manageable.
Curl Enhancing Product
Some people with ultra-fine or wavy-curly hair get better results with a mousse, but most curly girls will do well with a gel. You will need a bit of trial and error here to determine if your hair does better with a rich or light formula, or somewhere in between.
OK, Details on Cleansing and Shampoo with the Curly Girl Method
The Curly Girl Method recommends two types of cleansing products in two steps. First, a clarifying shampoo with sulfates for a one-time "reset" to remove build-up, and second, a sulfate-free, moisturizing, and gentle cleanser for regular use.
The other interesting feature of the method is to use a creamy conditioner as a cleanser. It definitely works great for certain hair types. Intrigued? Keep on reading!
"Reset" shampoo
The first step of the Curly Girl Method is to strip your hair of all silicone and wax buildup. If you don't take this critical step, the CGM will never work. Therefore, you begin the CGM journey with a "reset shampoo," specifically a sulfate-based clarifying shampoo to establish a clean base. After, avoid using sulfates unless you mistakenly use a product containing those pesky silicones or waxes, in which case you will need to "reset" once more with the clarifying shampoo.
Regular cleanser
After completing the initial reset wash, you will no longer be using sulfates. Going forward, you will be using a mild, hydrating, sulfate-free cleanser to maintain the cleanliness of your scalp—this is commonly known as a conditioner in the CGM community. Yes, a conditioner will serve as your shampoo/cleanser.
Wash Your Hair With Conditioner with The Curly Girl Method?!
The Curly Girl Method recommends using conditioner, yes, regular conditioner, as your cleanser. While it may seem unconventional, conditioner actually contains mild cleansing agents (which is why you can rinse it out of your hair). The practice of washing hair with conditioner is not a recent concept; it originated in the natural hair community and has been traditionally referred to as cleansing conditioner, no-poo, or co-wash.
Typically, curly hair tends to be naturally dry and does not require strong cleansers, particularly for coarse, thick, or high porosity hair. However, using conditioner as a cleanser didn't really work for me because my wavy/curly mix is fine and has low porosity. This is when you turn to a sulfate-free shampoo.
Deciding What Cleanser or Shampoo to Use With the Curly Girl Method
Sulfate Free Shampoo
What it is: Also called low-poo (low-shampoo), sulfate-free shampoos don't strip hair of your natural oils since they contain gentle cleansers to break down oil and buildup.
What they're best for: Wavy and curly hair that is thinner, gets greasy and oily fast, or has a lower porosity.
Pointer: Depending on your hair, your sulfate-free cleansers may still be too drying. If your hair feels squeaky rather than smooth after rinsing, the cleanser is too strong. If this is the case, you can add a few drops of conditioner to your shampoo bottle.
Cleansing Conditioner
What it is: Sometimes called no-poo or co-washes these are rinse-out conditioners used as shampoo. Most curl types (and all coily/kinky types) have a high porosity and coarseness and only need water, moisture, and massage for effective cleansing. Don't forget to massage your scalp for at least 60 seconds. A handheld, silicone scalp massager works great for this.
What they're best for: All coily/kinky curly hair types and many drier curl types.
Pointer: Many curly girls are often pleased by how well their hair and scalp adjusts to using a only cleansing conditioner without shampoo. Whatever your curly hair type, you might consider trying the cleansing conditioner method for a month or so and see how it works for your hair.
How Often Do I Wash My Hair With the Curly Girl Method?
It's usually recommended that you wash your hair once a week with the CGM. However, your scalp and hair may be different. As long as you're sticking to the sulfate-free, gentle cleansers or cleansing conditioner, how often you cleanse won't make a huge difference to your results.
If your hair is prone to oiliness or you have low porosity hair, I would suggest cleansing every other day. For thicker, coarser waves and curls 1-3 times a week is ideal, and for coily/kinky or high porosity hair, try co-washing once a week.
The Curly Girl Method: Step By Step
OK, I have given you a lot of details. It's time to revamp your hair care regimen with the Curly Girl Method and introduce co-washing, plopping, and scrunching techniques into your routine to enhance your natural waves and curls. Now let me walk you through the step by step of how to use all of this new knowledge about the Curly Girl Method.
Experiment with different styling products and techniques to find what works best for your hair type. Remember, the Curly Girl Method is all about embracing and enhancing your unique curls.
Lastly, be patient and consistent in your approach. Results may not be immediate, but with dedication and perseverance, you will soon see the transformative effects of following the Curly Girl Method.
RESET: Hair “Reset” Wash
Wash your hair with a sulfate clarifying shampoo to remove all silicone and product buildup from your hair and scalp. Repeat this step if you ever use a product containing silicone or you feel like your hair has product or oil buildup.
STEP 1: Cleanse/Co-Wash
Wash your hair with a sulfate-free cleansing conditioner or sulfate-free shampoo. Massage your scalp with your fingers or a scalp massager/shampoo brush for at least one minute. This step is actually super important. Do not skip the massage. Rinse out.
STEP 2: Condition
Apply a generous amount of sulfate-free conditioner to the lower half of your hair until it feels thoroughly coated and saturated. Detangle using a wide tooth comb or just your fingers. Rinse out the conditioner, ensuring most or all of it is removed.
STEP 3: Style
To style your curls using the Curly Girl Method, start by selecting the right products. Alcohol-free gels, curl creams, and mousses free of sulfates, silicones, and parabens are ideal for defining curls and providing moisture. Apply your styling products to soaking wet hair to lock in moisture and enhance curl definition. Gently scrunch a palmful (more than feels normal) into your sopping-wet hair from roots to tips.
STEP 4: Dry
Either plop your hair for 15-20 minutes, or gently cup and scrunch the excess water from your hair with a cotton T-shirt or cotton T-shirt hair towel. Allow your hair to air-dry without touching it, or use a blow dryer with a diffuser on a low setting. After your hair has completely dried, softly scrunch it with your hands to eliminate the stiff gel layer.
THE CONCLUSION
That's all there is to it. This is the basic Curly Girl Method. It's not as daunting as it seems, is it? After mastering the basics and experimenting with various application techniques, you can explore using different products. See below for more on Curly Girl FAQs.
Frequently Asked Questions About the Curly Girl Method
Still have questions about the Curly Girl Method? Let's go through some of the FAQs of the Curly Girl Method. I promise I will try to not go into too much detail. I know this has been a lot of info!
Will the Curly Girl Method Make My Hair Curl or Curlier?
The Curly Girl Method is designed to enhance your natural curl or wave pattern rather than create curls on hair that is naturally straight or only slightly wavy. The main objective of CGM is to achieve healthier, fuller, and more defined curls, essentially maximizing the potential of your hair texture. Therefore, it is essential to have a distinct wave or curl pattern.
Can I Brush My Hair Using the Curly Girl Method?
The Curly Girl Method recommends only using a wide-tooth comb when it is saturated with conditioner to maintain the natural curl pattern and does not allow for traditional brushing, because it disturbs your curl pattern.
Tighter curls will often require a comb to detangle in the shower, but also require a curly hair brush to detangle and distribute products for twisting, braiding, and protective styling. Fine hair may also be too fragile for wet detangling. If this is the case you might consider dry brushing your hair before a washing and then combing through it again with the conditioner.
What is the Easiest and Best Way to Apply Styling Products Using the Curly Girl Method?
There are so many methods for applying product to enhance you're curls. You will probably want to experiment to find which works best for your hair.
I suggest trying one method at least 5 times before moving on to a new method. Each time, make sure to vary up how much product you use and how wet your hair is. Here is my favorite:
Upside Down Scrunching
Scrunching allows you to apply products and moisture into your hair in a natural, curl defining way. This means healthy hydration, and scrunching encourages curl clumps (which means well defined curls when dry). And if you want to do it upside down, you get the added benefit of volume if that is your goal.
After conditioning, flip your head over, rake all your hair forward, then squish in (cup and squeeze) the gel, mousse, or curl cream. The water in your hair will help dilute and distribute the product, while all the cupping and scrunching will encourage major curl or wave formation.
Regular Scrunching
This is just like upside down scrunching, but without flipping your hair over. If your hair tends to tangle or if you have tighter coils, you will want to do avoid the flip. This will help avoid any knots or tangles.
How long does it take the Curly Girl Method to work?
The Curly Girl Method can take at least six weeks to really start to work.
Don't be alarmed by this—it's simply a part of life. When you start using different products and drying techniques on your waves and curls, it's normal for your hair to react differently at first. However, as you've seen in the before-and-after photos, the majority of people see positive results when they persist with the new routine.
So, How Did the Curly Girl Method Work For YOU?!
I would love to hear about your magical hair results in three months (or, realistically, your frantic questions in approximately 24 hours). Comment here or feel free to message me at anna@weareoof.com for questions or comments, or just to say hi!
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