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What is my hair type? What is a hair type chart? How do I soften and smooth my coarse hair? What is the best treatment for frizzy hair? These are some of the questions you may be asking, especially with the promises of so many brands and maybe disappointing results from the products you have tried.
If you are tired of trying product after product, hoping to find the perfect match for your hair, look no further. Our brand new hair type chart is here to demystify everything you need to know about your hair type including hair structure, texture, density, and porosity...and what that means for the ingredients you need for your hair type.
This is not a sales pitch for hair products. We are giving you straight forward information about every aspect of hair type along with the ingredients best for each type of hair.
Hair structure, texture, density, and porosity all play a big role in determining the right products and styling techniques. With this comprehensive guide, you'll be able to identify your specific hair characteristics and tailor your hair care routine to meet its unique needs.
The usual hair type chart and hair type categories are outdated, here's why.
When it comes to hair care, understanding your hair type can be really helpful for knowing the best ingredients and solutions to look for in your hair products. It sets the foundation for developing a personalized hair care routine that caters to your specific needs.
There are several classification systems to identify different hair types and hair type categories, including the widely known Andre Walker Hair Typing System. However, most hair type charts focus mainly on curl pattern which is just one characteristic about your hair. Understanding your hair curliness type (structure) is only a piece of the hair type puzzle. Curl pattern alone won’t really help you figure out how to care for your hair.
Do you know the porosity of your hair? Hair porosity is huge for knowing the right ingredients and especially which oils to use. Should you use a sealing oil or moisturizing oil? What about hair texture? Is over conditioning actually causing all that frizz? Balancing your hair care specific to your hair type will help your hair to be healthy and easier to manage and style.
That's where our new hair type chart and hair type categories come in. With its detailed breakdown of each hair type, structure, density, and porosity, you'll be able to identify and understand your hair like never before.
The new hair type chart includes hair curl type, texture, density, and porosity.
Our hair type chart is a tool that takes the guesswork out of understanding your hair. It provides comprehensive information all the aspects of hair type making it easier to determine the best ingredients and care for your specific hair.
Some types of hair tend to frizz quickly, while others can’t hold a curl. You can’t control the type of hair and its texture, but you can learn to work around them. Let's dive into each aspect of the hair chart and how it can benefit you.
How to identify your hair type and characteristics.
Determining your complete hair type is the first step towards creating an effective hair care routine. Our hair type chart breaks down each of the hair type categories and provides detailed descriptions of their characteristics, helping you pinpoint where your hair falls on the spectrum.
Want a quick and easy way to determine your hair type and the best ingredients and hair care plan for your hair? Take the OOF! Hair Type Quiz and quickly determine your best hair care plan.
Hair Type Category 1
Hair Structure Type (Hair Curl Pattern)
Ask yourself: Is my hair type curly, straight, and somewhere in between? Hair curliness types are all about hair structure. Hair structure refers to the arrangements of proteins, such as keratin, that make up the hair shaft. It determines whether your hair is straight, wavy, curly, or kinky. Hair structure is determined by the shape of your hair follicles.
So, follicles are little holes in your skin that hold the hair root and that's where your hair comes out from. The shape of your follicle determines the structure of your hair. If this follicle has an oval shape, then the structure of your hair in cross-section will be oval. This is the part of the hair type chart that most of us are familiar with. It tells us about our curl pattern.
Straight Hair Type
(Hair Type 1A - Hair Type 1C)
The structure of Type 1, straight hair follicles and shafts have a round cross-section, which allows light to reflect easily, giving it a glossy appearance. Straight hair is characterized by its smooth texture and lack of natural curl or wave. It tends to be shiny and reflects light easily.
Wavy Hair Type
(Hair Type 2A - Hair Type 2C)
Wavy hair follicles have a slight oval shape, causing the hair to form gentle waves or loose curls. Type 2 wavy hair types have a natural curl form that falls somewhere between straight and curly, with bends or curves along the length of the strands. It has a slight 'S' shape and is prone to frizz.
Curly Hair Type
(Hair Type 3A - Hair Type 3C)
The structure of curly hair shafts are more elliptical or asymmetrical, leading to hair strands that form well-defined curls or ringlets. This type 3 curly hair may also be prone to frizz and dryness.
Coily (Kinky) Hair Type
(Hair Type 4A - Hair Type 4C)
Coily or kinky hair shafts have a flattened oval shape, resulting in tightly coiled or zigzag-shaped strands. Type 4, coily hair is characterized by tight coils or curls that form close to the scalp, creating a dense and voluminous texture.has a very tight curl pattern.
Hair Type Category 2
Hair Texture Type (Thickness): Fine, Medium or Coarse Hair?
Ask Yourself: How thick does a single strand of hair feel between my fingers? Hair texture or thickness refers to the diameter of individual hair strands. It plays a significant role in determining how hair looks, feels, and behaves. There are main 3 different hair types when it comes to texture – fine hair, medium hair, and thick hair.
Fine Hair Texture
Fine hair strands are smaller in diameter, making them lightweight and delicate. Individual strands of fine hair are hard to feel between your fingers. Fine hair texture types are considered the most fragile texture because they can be easily damaged. Fine hair tends to lack volume and can appear flat. It may be prone to oiliness at the scalp but can also be easily weighed down by heavy products.
Medium Hair Texture
Medium textured hair covers your scalp very well. It is not as fragile as thin hair, so it can be manipulated into different hairstyles easily. Medium texture means individual strands feel similar to a piece of sewing thread between your fingers and is smooth and elastic when pulled between your fingers. It is known as the most common hair texture type and usually looks thick.
Coarse Hair Texture
Coarse hair strands are larger in diameter, and feel rough or wiry when rubbed between your fingers. This gives a fuller appearance to the hair, and coarse hair often has plenty of volume and body. Coarse textured hair can be more challenging to manage and style due to its density, but it tends to be more resilient to damage.
Hair Type Category 3
Hair Density Type: Thin, Normal, or Thick
Ask yourself: How much hair do I have? Hair texture (thickness) and density are not the same thing. People frequently mistake hair texture (diameter) of the hair fiber for density. Hair density is the number of hair strands on your head. This hair type can range from low to high density, with variations in between. Hair density affects how full or thin your hair appears and plays a significant role in styling and maintenance.
If you have a low-density hair type, you may find that your hair lacks volume and body. On the other hand, high-density hair type can be challenging to manage and style due to its thickness and weight. Knowing your hair's density allows you to select products and styling techniques that address these specific concerns.
Thin: Low Density Hair Type
Thin hair density means there are fewer hair strands per square inch on the scalp. It may result in a sparse or lightweight appearance. Thin hair types can lack volume and fullness, and it may be more prone to showing scalp visibility. If you make a ponytail with you hair, it's very small and lacks thickness.
Normal Density Hair Type
Normal hair density indicates a moderate number of hair strands per square inch on the scalp. This density hair type strikes a balance between thin and thick hair, offering adequate coverage and volume. Normal hair density is generally considered healthy and manageable. You have a good, thick ponytail.
Thick Hair: High Density Type
Thick density hair type means there is a dense, high concentration of hair strands per square inch on the scalp. It results in a dense and voluminous appearance with ample coverage. Thick hair type can be challenging to manage due to its density, and it may require more effort to style and maintain.
Hair Type Category 4
Hair Porosity Type: Low, Balanced, High
Last, but definitely not least is hair porosity. Ask yourself: How easily does my hair soak in and retain moisture? How quickly does my hair dry? Hair porosity refers to the hair's ability to absorb and retain moisture. It is determined by the condition of the hair cuticle, which is the outermost protective layer of the hair shaft. This is a huge one for hair care. You may need deep conditioning or oiling, or you may need to use a clarifying shampoo to take some of that moisture out to balance over conditioned hair.
When it comes to hair porosity, we're looking at the anatomy of the hair cuticle. The cuticle consists of overlapping scales that cover the hair shaft, kind of like the shingles on a roof. The arrangement and condition of these scales determine how easily moisture and other substances can pass through the hair shaft.
How can you figure out your hair type for porosity and ability to absorb moisture? One way is to use a glass of water. Place a small strand of your hair (2-3 inches) in a glass of water. If the hair strand floats at the top, you have low porosity hair. If it sinks to the bottom, you have high porosity hair. If it floats somewhere in the middle, this is considered a balanced or normal porosity.
Low Porosity Hair Type
Low porosity hair type has a tightly closed cuticle, making it difficult for water and other molecules to penetrate the hair shaft, resulting in slow moisture absorption. This hair type takes longer to absorb water or products, but once absorbed, it retains moisture well. Products may sit on the surface of the hair rather than being absorbed, leading to potential buildup.
Sometime low porosity hair types will end up over conditioned. This looks like frizzy hair, especially in curly hair, making you want to run for the deep conditioning treatments and oils to try to tame the frizz. If your hair is frizzy, first decide if it's a soft (almost too soft) frizz or a dry frizz. If you have low porosity hair and it's really soft, you may need to use a clarifying shampoo to remove moisturizer build up and lightly condition to bring back balance.
Balanced Porosity Hair Type
Normal porosity hair type has a balanced cuticle structure, with the scales lying flat but not overly compacted. This allows moisture to penetrate the hair shaft effectively while also helping to retain it within the hair. Balanced porosity hair can absorb and release moisture without excessive difficulty, maintaining a healthy moisture balance.
High Porosity Hair Type
High porosity hair type has a damaged or raised cuticle layer, which can occur due to factors such as heat styling, chemical treatments, or environmental damage. With gaps or lifted scales in the cuticle, high porosity hair readily absorbs moisture but struggles to retain it.
This can lead to dryness, frizz, and brittleness as moisture escapes from the hair shaft more easily. This type of hair requires products that can seal the cuticle and prevent moisture loss.
Hair Care Routine and Ingredients By Hair Type
Now that you have a clear understanding of your hair type by structure, texture, density, and porosity, you can begin to tailor your hair care routine accordingly. You may have some areas that overlap. In this case, consider the most important consideration for what you what from you hair and try a combination of ingredients.
You can use the hair type chart and hair type categories to easily see which ingredients and methods may be best for your type.
Hair care for fine hair, thin hair, and low porosity hair type
When selecting shampoos, conditioners, and volumizers for fine, thin, and low porosity hair types, avoid heavy or overly moisturizing formulas, as they can weigh the hair down and reduce volume. Instead, opt for products that are lightweight, volumizing, and designed to enhance body and texture without compromising hair health.
Shampoo and conditioners for fine, thin, and low porosity hair type
For these hair types, you want to try lightweight, water-based shampoos and conditioners that won't weigh your hair down or leave residue. Look for volumizing or clarifying shampoos that remove excess buildup and add lift to the hair. Choose sulfate-free formulas to prevent stripping natural oils from the hair, which can lead to dryness and breakage.
Focus on applying conditioner to the mid-lengths and ends of the hair, avoiding the scalp to prevent weighing down the roots.
Volumizers add body to fine, thin, and low porosity hair type
Volumizers can help to add body. Look for volumizing mousses, sprays, or foams designed specifically for fine or thin hair. Choose products that provide lift and hold without stiffness or stickiness. Apply volumizers to the roots or throughout the hair for added body and texture.
Fine, thin, and low porosity hair types are fragile: protein treatments can help
Protein treatments can help hair by reinforcing its structural integrity and strength. For fine, thin, and low porosity hair types, it's essential to choose protein treatments that are lightweight and won't weigh the hair down or cause buildup. Look for protein treatments that contain hydrolyzed proteins, which have been broken down into smaller molecules that can penetrate the hair shaft more easily.
Use protein treatments in moderation and balance them with moisturizing treatments, as excessive protein can make the hair feel stiff and brittle, particularly for fine, thin, and low porosity hair types.
The best moisturizing ingredients for fine, thin, and low porosity hair type
For fine, thin, and low porosity hair, the best humectant ingredients are lightweight and non-greasy, providing moisture without weighing the hair down. Some excellent options include honey, glycerin, hyaluronic acid, and panthenol. These ingredients attract moisture from the air and help to hydrate the hair without causing buildup or greasiness.
Additionally, consider incorporating styling techniques such as blow-drying with a round brush or using root-lifting techniques to further enhance volume and lift.
Hair care for medium-textured, normal density, and balanced porosity hair type
The key for these hair types is to maintain its natural balance without causing excessive weight or dehydration. Try gentle, shampoos and hydrating conditioners that provide moisture without weighing the hair down. Overall, prioritize gentle care and hydration to maintain the natural beauty and balance.
Shampoos and conditioners for medium-textured, normal density and balanced porosity
Look for sulfate-free shampoos and conditioners to gently cleanse and hydrate the hair without stripping away natural oils. Choose formulas enriched with moisturizing ingredients such as argan oil, shea butter, and glycerin to nourish and hydrate the hair. Consider using a clarifying shampoo occasionally to remove buildup and maintain scalp health, but avoid overdoing it to prevent dryness.
Hydration for the balanced hair type
It's a good idea to incorporate a weekly deep conditioning treatment or hair mask to provide intensive hydration and repair. Look for products containing moisturizing ingredients that aren't too heavy like jojoba oil, argan oil, aloe vera, or glycerin to strengthen the hair and improve moisture retention.
Styling products for balanced hair type
Choose lightweight styling products such as serums, creams, or mousses to add definition and control without weighing the hair down. Look for products labeled as volumizing or texturizing to enhance body and texture without sacrificing moisture. Avoid heavy gels or waxes that can make the hair look greasy and dull.
Care considerations for balanced hair type
Use a wide-tooth comb or a gentle detangling brush to minimize breakage and prevent damage when styling wet hair, Protect the hair from heat styling by using a heat protectant spray before using hot tools. Limit the use of heat styling tools and opt for air-drying whenever possible to minimize damage.
Hair cair for coarse, thick, high porosity hair type
The most important considerations for these hair types revolve around hydration, strengthening, and minimizing damage. Coarse hair tends to be more prone to dryness due to its thick diameter and high porosity, which allows moisture to escape easily. Therefore, it's essential to prioritize hydration. Using rich, creamy styling products and gentle detangling techniques helps improve manageability, reduce frizz, and enhance the overall appearance of the hair.
Shampoos and conditioners for coarse, thick, high porosity hair type
Look for moisturizing and reparative shampoos and conditioners specifically formulated for dry, damaged, or chemically treated hair. Choose sulfate-free formulas to avoid stripping the hair of its natural oils and exacerbating dryness. Ingredients such as coconut oil, shea butter, argan oil, and avocado oil can deeply nourish and hydrate coarse hair while providing essential nutrients and moisture. Leave-in conditioner or hair oil can provide continuous hydration and protection against environmental stressors.
Hydration is key for coarse, thick, or high porosity hair type
Incorporate weekly deep conditioning treatments and hair masks enriched with protein and moisture-rich ingredients to repair and strengthen the hair. Look for products containing natural oils that are rich in fatty acids and vitamins that deeply penetrate the hair including coconut oil, shea butter, argan oil, and avocado oil. These restore moisture and nourishing the scalp.
Use a humidifier in your home, especially during dry or cold weather conditions, to add moisture to the air. Dry air can exacerbate dehydration in coarse hair, leading to increased frizz and brittleness. A humidifier helps maintain optimal moisture levels, keeping the hair hydrated and healthy.
Managing coarse, thick, and high porosity hair type
Coarse hair can be challenging to manage and style due to its thickness and texture. Using rich, creamy styling products and gentle detangling techniques helps improve manageability, reduce frizz, and enhance the overall appearance of the hair.
Use a wide-tooth comb or detangling brush to gently remove knots and tangles, starting from the ends and working your way up to the roots. Apply a leave-in conditioner or detangling spray to help ease the detangling process and minimize breakage.
Consider wearing protective hairstyles such as braids, twists, or buns to reduce friction and manipulation, which can lead to breakage in coarse, thick, high porosity hair. Protective styles also help retain moisture and protect the hair from environmental damage.
Hair Care That Works For Any Hair Type
Regardless of your hair type, two essential tools for promoting hair health include using a scalp massager as well as a t-shirt hair towel to dry your hair. Regular scalp massage can further enhance hair growth and thickness. Pairing this with a cotton t-shirt hair towel to gently dry your hair and protect your hair against breakage and frizz, you can maintain the integrity of your strands and promote smoother, more manageable hair. From stimulating hair growth and thickness to protecting against damage and breakage, these simple yet effective techniques offer benefits that extend to all hair types.
Scalp massage for hair growth and thickness
Incorporating scalp massage into your hair care routine can work wonders for promoting hair growth and thickness. Scalp massagers help stimulate blood flow to the scalp, delivering essential nutrients and oxygen to the hair follicles. This increased circulation can encourage hair growth, strengthen the hair roots, and improve overall scalp health. Regular scalp massage can also help alleviate tension and stress, promoting a healthier environment for hair growth and ensuring that your strands reach their full potential.
T-shirt hair towels for reducing damage, frizz, and tangles
By wrapping your hair in a t-shirt hair towel after washing, you can minimize friction and tension on the hair, reducing the risk of breakage and preventing tangles from forming. This gentle drying method is especially beneficial for those with long hair or easily tangled textures, helping to preserve the integrity of the hair and promote smoother, more manageable strands. Try hair plopping for curly hair or wrap your hair in turban. The smooth texture and low surface area of 100% cotton hair towels prevents damage to delicate, wet hair.
Tailoring your hair care routine based on your hair type, structure, density, and porosity
Understanding your unique combination of hair type and hair type category – including texture, density, and porosity can help you craft an effective hair care regimen tailored to your specific needs. The conventional hair type chart and hair type categories, primarily focusing on curl patterns, may fall short in providing comprehensive guidance as it overlooks critical factors such as hair texture, density, and porosity. However, our new hair care chart offers a detailed breakdown of each aspect, empowering you to identify and comprehend your hair like never before.
By delving into the intricacies of your hair type, you can better understand your hair's characteristics and behaviors. Armed with this knowledge, you can make informed decisions regarding the best ingredients, product selection, styling techniques, and maintenance routines to optimize the health, vitality, and appearance of your hair.
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